Grand Canyon R2R2R Part 5

Spirits were pretty high when we left Manzanita. We knew what to expect on the next section and agreed to push through and make Phantom Ranch our next refill stop.

We were in the canyon during the hottest part of the day. Temps rose to about 93 degrees (Fahrenheit) and there was little shade. Eventually we stopped chatting and focused on moving forward. At one point, Stephen said he wanted to go ahead and get to Phantom Ranch early. He didn’t tell me until later that his pump had failed and he wasn’t receiving insulin (he has Type 1 Diabetes). I probably would have made him stop on the side of the trail had I known!  But in the moment, we were all moving at the pace we needed to go, so that meant a solo section for everyone.

As I ran, and time passed, I started looking for buildings around every corner. The canyon twists and turns, following the river. I was hot and tired and ready for a break. I cursed the canyon, around every bend there was just another turn and more trail. I felt like it would never end! This was not a happy time. It was my lowest point and I was suffering. I made it to Phantom Ranch a bit of a mess and definitely cranky. I stumbled around, a bit delirious, surrounded by campers staying here for the night. They were all freshly showered and in awe of the canyon’s beauty. I resented them a little. I was experiencing the canyon’s brutal side.

They pointed me towards the canteen which was about to close!  I grabbed some chips and two large ice cold lemonades (one for Johanna). Stephen was relaxing in the shade and looked fine. I had no idea he was struggling just the same.

I poured the lemonade and ice into my front bottles, filled up my bladder and ate some Hüma gel and O’loves olives. The Hüma is easy to eat and the olives are a nice savory change. Once everyone was ready, we left the ranch. Only one section to go!  All we had to do was climb out of the canyon...